I ocasionally come across information on electrical improvements and other mods done to Camaros.

I will add to this page as I get them.

67 Camaro Headlight door wiring & information

wiring diagram for charging system showing fuseable links.

Camaro Charging lead connections

The upper wire from battery to starter is not correct, the wire runs to the top terminal on the starter solenoid.

Headlight motor replacememt A #4Z837 from Grainger supply is supposed to work as a replacement motor. I have seen the whole Grainger motor and gear assy in catalogs for use as replacement for the 67 assy. Or just the motor could be used. These look pretty small and weak.

Here is a stronger replacement headlight motor:

Here is a mini starter info sheet, has a circut diagram for providing power to point ignitions for startup, (purple wire marked SOL)

I have reciently read that using an HEI distributor with the old mechanical voltage regulator may cause the life of the HEI to be shortened due to voltage spikes. A Wells replacement electronic voltage regulator should be considered, or an internal regulator type alternator should be used. The late CS style from late 80's GM pickups is a good candidate.

Here is an alternator conversion "how two" link,

For an electronic instead of a mechanical point type voltage regulator for your standard alternator, use a Wells - VR715 available at Autozone or Farm and Fleet, also from some internet parts vendors. It is good for up to 60 amp alternators.

This unit will plug right in and work on your standard wiring harness!

NOTE: You MUST mount and ground the unit before connecting the plug!

I'm told you can use your old Delco black painted top cover for a stock look.

Cost is $11.49 plus tax at Autozone.

Here is the wells web page








Running voltage at the horn realay main junction should be 14.2v to 14.5v, if lower, the alternator belt may be slipping or alt output is low.


I get to fix lots of starters on our farm fleet. Below are some things to consider if your starter is having problems.

Make sure all battery connections are clean and tight. The battery ground connection must go to the engine block and have a clean connection to bare metal.

The starter recieves it's ground connection through the engine block. The starter and block must be bare metal to bare metal there.


The starter solenoid must be in good condition internally. If the internal contacts are worn the starter will not get full power.

The starter brushes must be in good condition. They can be examined by removing the end cover from the starter. If the brushes wear down to the screws, it will drag and increase starter load enough to lower ignition coil voltage and prevent starting. The starter wil really jump and jerk, sometimes stick and needs to be struck with a hammer to get it going again with bad brushes. The interior dome light will almost go out during cranking if there is a really high amp draw of the starter, indicating a connection problem or internal starter shorting.


If the starter armature bushings are worn, the armature move enough to drag on the magnets and starter amp draw will increase.


When hot, try a jumper or remote starter button on the purple wire of the starter to battery +. MAKE SURE THE CAR IS OUT OF GEAR!

If there is no problem starting this way but there is a problem with the key starting it. You could have a bad neutral safety switch or if you have a 69 Camaro with transmission lockout switch, that uses the same switch on the steering column as the automatics use for neutral safety. This switch or the ignition switch can have the contacts inside burn, wear, or pit and the added resistance can sometimes prevent hot starting or the starter will only make a slight click.

If your starter is turning the engine but not turning it very fast, I'd suspect internal starter drag, worn brushes, bad connections-grounds, poor battery output, maybe a failing alternator is not charging the battery enough.


Many people will tell you to add a Ford type remote starter solenoid to your car. It will help cover up a bad ignition switch or other wiring deficiency in your car's wiring, if that is your problem.

I have usually solved it without going that far.

I like the standard motor products solenoid, Part # SS200. It is more heat resistant.

Weaker GM solenoid return springs are available for heat soak starter problems too.


Starters for low performance engines don't turn over high perf engines very well if at all. Make sure to use a Z/28 or Corvette engine starter for the "special high performance" engine.

All big block starters are ideal as they are all high torque starters. Just make sure the starter fits your flywheel size. usually staggered bolts on the starter are for large flywheel, in line bolts are for small flywheel.


Here is the temp to resistance of a first gen temp gage sender. The 220 deg ohms might be a little off, it was hard to keep the water temp up there evenly.


220 - 101

210 - 104

200 - 118

190 - 133

180 - 152

170 - 172

160 - 194

150 - 225


The newer senders have too high a resistance to work right, perhaps a correct value resistor to ground would work to correct it, but I'm no expert on that.

Use this link to find some part numbers for senders and a temp/ohm chart. It seems most GM computer equipped senders are interchangeable, but not with the firstgen Camaro guages.


Our farm had a bunch of Chevy pickups which used the same long water pump passenger side alternator drive system. From 1969 to 1987 GM used the same basic alternator mounting and drive. We often had belt slipping issues and it was always cropping up.

Here are some observations:

At startup the battery is slightly drained from cranking. It may be more drained if the vehicle has been sitting a long time, the lights were on or other accessories used to deplete the battery. The battery may be old and become more discharged than normal after cranking. When the engine starts, the alternator goes to full charge mode, which puts a big load on the pulley and belt.

Newer alternators make this worse due to their higher charging amp rating which creates more load.

The pulley drive system spins the alternator at very high rpm's, a small diameter alternator pulley is used to get this high ratio. - more load on the drive

There is not a lot of contact surface between the belt and pulley, it would be better if the belt had more degrees of wrap around the pulley. This is the main fault of this system: lack of wrap and small pulley diameter.

The small pulley wears out eventually, often the alternator is replaced but the old pulley is just swapped over. It's hard to see but the pulley can wear so it does not have the correct "V" angles. I have seen the pulley wear enough to allow the belt to bottom out in the grooves so the "V" is not grabbing much at all.

A slipping alternator belt can run down the battery as you drive, - if you are driving with your lights on. It happened to me in a 70 camaro. When I stopped for gas, it wouldn't restart.

I test the belt and pulley condition/tightness by putting my thumb on the alternator fan and pushing down firmly, (engine off). If the pulley slips on the belt, the belt is not tight enough, or the pulley and belt are worn. Keeping an eye on this whenever you check fluids can help you avoid trouble.

A larger pulley can be installed with a longer belt, and this greatly improves belt contact, with a slight reduction in rpm's, this RPM reduction helps reduce alternator inertia helping it follow the engine better. The Z/28 alternator pulley is great for this. Engines that rev quickly or to high RPM's should use it. I prefer the Gates belts.